Italy Part II - The Amalfi Coast

Rule number one of getting around Italy, do not, I repeat, do NOT rent a car unless you are a 100% confident stick shift driver and can handle the cray-cray Italian drivers. Rules are more like guidelines here :) At one point, we had to drive through a tiny-ass alley “street” where the width of the alley was just barely wide enough to fit our tiny car. Oh and it was a two way street and it was a steep up-and-down kind of road. Needless to say, I took only 1 blurry photo on my phone during that part b/c I was a bit preoccupied watching Michael navigate through and holding my breath the rest of the time. lol

Anyways, Naples to Amalfi! We stayed in the San Lazzaro fraction within the Agerola municipality. Amalfi and Positano both were way too expensive and touristy for us and I really wanted to do some hiking in Italy so the airBnB and location we sourced out was PERFECT for our needs. Agerola sits right between Amalfi and Positano and you can get to both via hiking. We could literally walk from our bnb to the Agerola-Amalfi path. And the Path of the Gods requires a little bit of driving but I did a good amount of review reading and chose an airbnb host that I knew would be more than happy to drop us off at the trail head. Juan Carlos and his entire family were the most amazing hosts ever (honestly speaking, if you get a chance to here, stay with them!).

We only had a full day and a half there so we left Naples fairly early to make most of our half day. We decided to hike down to Amalfi first after our early lunch that Juan Carlos kindly guided us to on foot (the whole village is pretty walkable lol). If you choose this hike, be forewarned, SO. MANY. STEPS. And eventually the trail ends and you’ll end up walking on the tiny highway to get the rest of the way to Amalfi. We roamed for a while around the town and eventually got onto a Sita bus (getting onto a local bus is quite an interesting experience). When we got back, it started pouring. Juan Carlos drove us up the street (bless his heart haha) to this amaaaaazing little family-ran b&b for dinner. Farm-to-table from their own farm, the wife cooked whatever was good that day, the daughter prepped apertivos/took our orders, the husband helped seat guests, and the son was learning how to cook with his momma. It was absolutely enchanting watching them and all the food was to die for. We had 3 appetizers, 1 primo, couldn’t fit a segundi, and got dessert, for FORTY DOLLARS. It honestly spoiled us for the rest of our trip in terms of quality and cost haha.

Okay and the Path of the Gods…we thought the hike to Amalfi was stunning already. It still did not prepare us properly for the views on the Path of the Gods. We accidentally ended up taking the SUPER long way to get to Positano instead of picking up a bus from Nocelle b/c we couldn’t understand the signs lol (in hindsight, I don’t recommend this if you can avoid it) and was desperately hungry so we got caught along the way at a touristy trap “fine dining” that turned out to be eh at best. Anyway…it was still a phenomenal hiking experience. And unfortunately we were just too tired by the time we got to Positano to really enjoy the town and didn’t want to miss the ferry back to Amalfi (to pick up a bus). But I’m at peace with blowing past Positano for we spent more of that day indulging in the beauty of Italy’s mountainside instead and I wouldn’t have had it any other way.

Denise McMahonComment